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Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors
PURPOSE
- Study aimed to validate critical force (CF) for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers.
METHODS
- Twelve participants performed the 4 min all-out test for CF determination and subsequent visits for verification involved finger-flexor contractions at various intensities, lasting for 720 s or until failure, while monitoring muscle-oxygen dynamics of forearm muscles.
RESULTS
- CF was measured at 20.1 ± 5.7 kg, while the end-force at 16.8 ± 5.2 kg. Mean time to failure at CF was 440 ± 140 s.
- When the load was continuously lowered, a greater number of participants successfully completed the 720 s task.
- Changes of muscle-oxygen dynamics showed high variability and could not clearly distinguish between exhaustive and non-exhaustive trials.
CONCLUSIONS
- CF, based on the mean force of the last three contractions, failed to reliably predict the highest sustainable work rate. Determining CF as the end-force of the last three contractions exhibited a stronger link to sustainable work.
- Caution is advised in interpreting forearm muscle-oxygen dynamics, lacking sensitivity for nuanced metabolic responses during climbing-related tasks.
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